Niemivaara Hill

Niemivaara Hill is located on the shore of Lake Ajankijärvi, about 40 kilometres from the municipal centre of Pello.

Niemivaara is a hill of steep cliffs and boulder-like rocks that enchanted the French scientists who passed through it. Later, several poets were inspired by Pierre Louis Moreau de Maupertuis’ travel writing. For example, the Scottish poet James Thomson writes in his poem Seasons (1740):

Where pure Niemi’s fairy mountains rise, And fringed with roses, Tenglio rolls his stream.

Niemivaara is bordered on its northern and western sides by Lake Ajankijärvi. Beautiful views of the surrounding area open up from the various edges of the hill. From the rocky plateau near the edge of the hilltop, you can see south towards Iso Horila Hill (Horilankero) and Aavasaksa Hill, and northwest towards Pullinki Hill.

The measurement point is located in the wooded top area. On the east side of it is a large cliff, the edge of which also has impressive views over the landscape. The highest vertical wall is 8 to 12 metres high.

There is a small moraine dome at the top of Niemivaara. After the last Ice Age, the peaks of the highest hills remained as islands. The tops of these hills are referred to as domed hills because the ancient waters did not wash away their moraine cover. The top is a pine-dominated dry woodland.

The marker was erected at Niemivaara by a Swedish officer assisting the expedition on the first days of August. In Outhier’s book he remains anonymous, but it is possible that it was Gustav Bucht (1696–1759) from Ylitornio.

At the same time, a number of alternative markers were erected on the nearby hills. Niemivaara was chosen as the most suitable because, among other reasons, it also offered a view of the distant Kaakamavaara Hill.

The journey from the Torne to hill was a terrible one, according to Maupertuis.

First Maupertuis, Réginald Outhier and Anders Celsius rowed from Turtola along the rocky River Paamajoki to Lake Paamajärvi. One by one, the men had to get out of the boat and hop from one rock to another. In some places, the trees were so dense that they had to be felled before proceeding. To cross Lake Ajankijärvi, the rowers made a sail from a bushy spruce for the boats.

Although it was a terrible journey, once at Niemivaara, Maupertuis was completely enchanted by the beauty of the place and wrote a glowing description of it in his work La Figure de la Terre.

About 100 years after Maupertuis’ degree measuring, the maps on the measurements for the Struve Geodetic Arc had renamed Niemivaara as Ylinen-vaara.

Sources:

Husa, Jukka ja Teeriaho, Jari. Luonnon- ja maisemansuojelun kannalta arvokkaat kallioalueet Lapissa. Suomen ympäristö 6/2015. Ympäristöministeriö, Suomen ympäristökeskus. Helsinki, 2015.

Maupertuis, Pierre Louis Moreau de. “Maan muoto”. Maan muoto ynnä muita kirjoituksia Lapista. Ed. Osmo Pekonen. Väyläkirjat, 2019 (orig. 1738).

Outhier, Réginald. Matka Pohjan perille. Maupertuis Foundation and Väyläkirjat, 2011 (orig. 1744).


A map

Guidelines for using the map
  • Red = Measurement point of the triangulation chain.
  • Green = Walking route.
  • Blue = Arrival from the main road (highway 21).
  • Markers: Tap or click to get more information about the destinations.
  • Zoom out: Shows the location in the triangulation chain.
  • Drop icon: Locates the user’s location on the map.
  • Measure tool: Measure distances between locations.

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On the old map

Niemivaara on the map drawn by Réginald Outhier (Carte du fleuve de Torneå, 1736).

Want a map for yourself? The map is currently sold as a poster (225 mm x 707 mm) in the shop of the Museum of Torne Valley (address Torikatu 4, Tornio).


Information

WGS84N 66°34’40.1″ E 24°07’34.7″
WGS84N 66.5778, E 24.1263
ETRS-TM35FINN 7387243, E 372564
UTM (WGS84)35W 372566.777 7387248.917
(Estimated location of the measurement point.)

220 m

One way 1.3 km.

Niemivaara is located in the municipality of Pello. From Highway 21, turn east in Juoksenki onto the Ajangintie road. Juoksenki is located approximately halfway between the parish villages of Pello and Ylitornio.

Drive 17 kilometres inland along the Ajangintie road. Most of Ajangintie is a well-maintained dirt road.

The forest road branches off to the right from the Ajangintie road, following a route marked with temporary signs to Niemivaara.

If the signs are in place, you can follow them until you reach the top of the hill.

The first part of the route is through an easy-to-navigate forest. The terrain becomes rocky at the top of the hill.

Kittisvaara26 km
Pullinki17 km
Iso-Horila (Horilankero)14 km
Kaakamavaara49 km
(Distance as the crow flies.)

Around from the 3rd to 4th of August 1736
From the 8th to 11th of August 1736

The 10th of August 1736. “The weather was fine when we left Turtula. We reckoned upon its continuance, and that at the latest our observations would be finished by Friday. Neither ourselves nor our sailors had laid in provisions for more than two or three days; in the mean time we had no prospect of fair weather, and had already begun to divide the provisions which we had remaining among our soldiers: we therefore dispatched five of them to Turtula on Friday evening for victuals for us and for themselves.”

Réginald Outhier. Journal of a Voyage to the North (Journal d’un voyage au Nord), 1744.

The 8th of August 1736. “The beautiful Lakes that surround this Mountain, and the many difficulties we had to overcome in getting thither, gave it the air of an enchanted Island in a Romance. And indeed any where but in Lapland it would be a most delightful place. On one hand you see a grove of Trees rise from a Plain, smooth and level as the Walks of a Garden, and at such easy distances as neither to embarrass the Walks, nor the Prospect of the Lake that washes the foot of the Mountain.

On the other you have Appartments of different Sizes, that seem artificially cut in the Rock, and to want only a Roof to compleat them. And the Rocks themselves so perpendicular, so high and so smooth that you would take them for the Walls of an unfinished Palace rather than for the work of Nature.

From this height we had Occasion several times to see these Vapours rise from the Lake, which the People of the Country call Haltios, and which they deem to be the guardian Spirits of the Mountains.

We had been frighted with Stories of Bears that haunted this place, but saw none. It seemed rather a place of resort for Fairies and Genii than for Bears.”

Pierre Louis Moreau de Maupertuis. The Figure of the Earth (La Figure de la Terre), 1738.

Pictures from Niemivaara

The pictures open in large size in the gallery by clicking on the picture.


The expedition on the map

Réginald Outhier has written a detailed description of the expedition’s journey from Paris to Tornio and back. The journey took two months each way and was made by boat and wagon. On the way back, the expedition was in a shipwreck in the Bay of Bothnia.


Measurement points and other destinations