The rapids of the Torne

On 6 July 1736, the expedition boarded boats in Tornio and set off towards the hills of the Torne Valley, which served as measurement points. They had seven boats, each with three rowers.

The river made the expedition’s work much easier, as people, research equipment and other gear travelled along it with relative ease.

At around 500 kilometres long, the Torne is the largest free-flowing river in Europe. Unlike many other large rivers, its rapids have not been harnessed for electricity generation.

The river has its source in the fells on the border between Sweden and Norway. The fell streams flow into Lake Torneträsk, from where the river meanders through northern Sweden until it turns into a border river after Pajala and joins Muonio River.

While crossing the Torne back and forth by boat and in winter by sled, the expedition repeatedly had to pass several rapids of the river. Sometimes, some of the French would raft the rapids in boats, either out of a sense of adventure or sheer fatigue.

The French were impressed by the skill of the local rowers in navigating the rapids.
The boats used were lighter than French boats. In his journal, Réginald Outhier describes how, when descending rapids, two men always row at a fast pace and a third man steers the boat to prevent it from hitting rocks. Sometimes the speed was so fierce that the boats seemed to be floating in the air above the waves.

Outhier’s map of the triangulation in the Torne Valley shows the following rapids listed from south to north: Kukkolankoski, Matkakoski, Vuennonkoski, Sompakoski, Kauvokoski, Kattilakoski, Korpikoski, Valkeakoski, Hirvaskoski and Puruskoski.

A Finnish word koski means a rapid.

Sompakoski is marked at where Kauvokoski is. It is not specifically designated on the current maps.
In his journal, Outhier also talks about Vojakkalankoski. By this he probably means Isonärä and Vähänärä in the villages of Ala- and Ylivojakkala.

Sources:

Maupertuis, Pierre Louis Moreau de. “Maan muoto”. Maan muoto ynnä muita kirjoituksia Lapista. Ed. Osmo Pekonen. Väyläkirjat, 2019 (orig. 1738).

Outhier, Réginald. Matka Pohjan perille. Maupertuis Foundation and Väyläkirjat, 2011 (orig. 1744).


A map

Guidelines for using the map
  • Red = Measurement point of the triangulation chain.
  • Green = A rapid
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  • Measure tool: Measure distances between locations.

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Information about the rapids

The 6th of July 1736. “We landed, and walked along the banks, while the sailors with great difficulty got the boat up the cataracts of Wojackala and Kuckula.”

Réginald Outhier. Journal of a Voyage to the North (Journal d’un voyage au Nord), 1744.

Kukkolankoski is the longest free-flowing rapids in Finland. The length of the rapids is about 3.5 kilometres and its drop is about 14 metres. The distance from the town centre of Tornio to Kukkolankoski is just under 16 kilometres.

Kukkolankoski is famous for its traditional form of fishing, using scoop nets to catch whitefish. The scoop-net has a long rod and a landing net at the end. The fisher moves the scoop net downstream along the routes the whitefish swims. The right to use scoop nets is limited to 16 original estates, which continue to ensure the continuation of the tradition.

Kukkolankoski on Outhier’s map.

The 16th of August 1736. “The cataract Matka was quite as terrible as the first (Vuennonkoski): we were, as it were, buried amidst the waves, but this was of short duration. We arrived at Korpikyla at three in the afternoon: we stopped more than two hours at a farmer’s; we dined there, as well as our sailors, who required a little rest.”

Réginald Outhier. Journal of a Voyage to the North (Journal d’un voyage au Nord), 1744.

Matkakoski is about a kilometre long and has a drop of 4.8 metres. Among fishers, Matkakoski is known as a good salmon fishing destination.

Matkakoski is located in Korpikylä, about 37 kilometres north of Tornio and 26 kilometres south of the municipal centre of Ylitornio.

As in Kukkolankoski, using scoop nets to catch whitefish is also practised in Matkakoski.
In October 1736, Matkakoski was unusually violent for the time of year. Outhier wrote how rowers had to unload their boats and carry both their goods and boats overland past the worst part of the rapids.

Matkakoski on Outhier’s map.

The 11th of July 1736. “After these gentlemen had advanced a league on the great river, they found themselves at the cataract of Waojenna [Vuennonkoski], which is the largest and most violent of all we met with between Torneo and Pello.”

Réginald Outhier. Journal of a Voyage to the North (Journal d’un voyage au Nord), 1744.

Maupertuis and Camus descended the Vuennonkoski with local rowers. At that time, the Mayor of Tornio, Mr Pipping, also accompanied the expedition.

“M. de Maupertuis was without any apprehension; he amused himself in the boat with observing the different effects of the water, while rushing forward with violence: as for M. Piping, who only remained in the boat out of complaisance, he was terribly frightened, and said nothing, except that “it was no laughing matter;” but the following morning, pretending business, he returned to Torneo.”

Vuennonkoski is located about 20 kilometres south of the municipal centre of Ylitornio. On the west bank of the river is Vitsaniemi, on the east side Pekanpää.

The 16th of August 1736. “M. Camus and myself were in the same boat, in which we kept going down the cataracts. At that of Waojenna, a wave on the side where I sat spent itself over the boat and almost covered me with water. We were obliged to keep ourselves in a posture almost lying, in order that we might not hinder tle pilot from seeing the rocks, which he continually avoided by the means of the rudder, while two Fins rowed with all their might: in some places, however, they suffer the boat to fall down the stream guided only by the pilot.”

Réginald Outhier. Journal of a Voyage to the North (Journal d’un voyage au Nord), 1744.

In October 1736, the expedition was on its way from Pello to Tornio and the flow of Vuennonkoski was “terrible”. According to the information Outhier heard, the water had not been as high as it was at that time of year for many years.

Vuennonkoski on Outhier’s map.

At the time of Maupertuis’ expedition, the Arctic Circle was located at Kattilakoski. The position of the Arctic Circle is not constant, but varies roughly between Kemi and Kolari in cycles of about 41,000 years. Currently, the Arctic Circle moves northwards by an average of 14.5 metres per year.

Today, the Arctic Circle crosses the Torne above Kattilakoski at the village of Juoksenki.
The expedition crossed the Arctic Circle on 17 July 1736. Outhier writes:

“While our sailors with great difficulty got the boats up the cataract of Kattilla, we proceeded on foot along the bank; and here it was I first passed the polar circle. It was nearly seven in the morning when our boats received us above the cataract: we found the river still fine and spacious, some very good fields on its sides of excellent rye, barley, and hops, near the hamlets of Komnus [Kommes], Hiougsing [Juoksenki], and Rattas [Ratas].”

Réginald Outhier. Journal of a Voyage to the North (Journal d’un voyage au Nord), 1744.

The length of the rapids is about 2 kilometres and its drop is about 5.5 metres.

Kattilakoski on Outhier’s map.

Measurement points and other destinations